{"id":387,"date":"2020-12-14T16:26:45","date_gmt":"2020-12-14T16:26:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/site.veracruz.edu.br\/portaldovera\/?p=387"},"modified":"2020-12-14T16:26:45","modified_gmt":"2020-12-14T16:26:45","slug":"a-producao-de-vestuarios-e-seus-impactos-no-requisito-social-e-ambiental","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/site.veracruz.edu.br\/portaldovera\/?p=387","title":{"rendered":"A produ\u00e7\u00e3o de vestu\u00e1rios e seus impactos no requisito social e ambiental"},"content":{"rendered":"

Maya\u00a0<\/span>Bekhor<\/span>\u00a0e Gabriela\u00a0Haipek<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c9 de conhecimento geral que\u00a0<\/span>o mercado de roupas\u00a0<\/span>sempre foi algo muito\u00a0<\/span>forte<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>em todas as \u00e9pocas<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0O presente trabalho<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>tratar<\/span>\u00e1<\/span>\u00a0da\u00a0<\/span>confec\u00e7\u00e3o de\u00a0<\/span>vestu\u00e1rios\u00a0<\/span>de 1900 at\u00e9 2020,\u00a0<\/span>e seus impactos, tanto no meio ambiente, quanto socialmente.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Consumo de \u00e1gua na produ\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/i>“<\/span><\/i>N<\/span><\/i>o\u00a0<\/span><\/i>s\u00e9culo passado<\/span><\/i>,<\/span><\/i>\u00a0o maior consumo de\u00a0<\/span><\/i>\u00e1gua<\/span><\/i>\u00a0ia para tingimento d<\/span><\/i>e<\/span><\/i>\u00a0tecido e na estamparia<\/span><\/i>.<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>Por exemplo<\/span><\/i>,<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>um lote de viscose (tecido feito de fibra artificial de celulose)<\/span><\/i>\u00a0que pesa 350\u00a0<\/span><\/i>quilos<\/span><\/i>, usando mais ou menos 15.000\u00a0<\/span><\/i>litros de \u00e1gua,\u00a0<\/span><\/i>d\u00e1<\/span><\/i>\u00a0para se<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>confeccionar<\/span><\/i>\u00a0de 600\u00a0<\/span><\/i>camisetas<\/span><\/i>\u201d,<\/span><\/i>\u00a0Mauricio\u00a0<\/span>B<\/span>ekhor<\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>propriet\u00e1rio<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>da<\/span>\u00a0Confec\u00e7\u00f5es Mauricio<\/span>, entrevistado em novembro de 2020<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

J\u00e1, em 2<\/span>020<\/span>, o consumo de\u00a0<\/span>\u00e1gua<\/span>\u00a0na produ\u00e7\u00e3o de\u00a0<\/span>vestu\u00e1rios<\/span>\u00a0reduziu, pois hoje<\/span>\u00a0dia j\u00e1 se tem m\u00e1quinas que\u00a0<\/span>precisam de\u00a0<\/span>menos \u00e1gua<\/span>\u00a0para tingir e estampar<\/span>. Por exemplo<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>o<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>mesmo lote de<\/span>\u00a0viscose<\/span>\u00a0(tecido<\/span>\u00a0feito de fibra artificial de celulose<\/span>)<\/span>\u00a0pesando trezentos quilos gastar\u00e1 no seu beneficiamento aproximadamente\u00a0<\/span>7<\/span>.000<\/span>\u00a0litros de \u00e1gua<\/span>, que equivale\u00a0<\/span>a produ\u00e7\u00e3o de aproximadamente 600 camisetas<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>s<\/span>egundo Fernanda Klug,\u00a0<\/span>Coordenadora de laborat\u00f3rio na\u00a0<\/span>Beckhauser<\/span>\u00a0Malhas<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>M\u00e3o de obra e rela\u00e7\u00f5es de trabalho<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Segundo dados da\u00a0<\/span>Rais<\/span>\u00a0(<\/span>Rela\u00e7\u00e3o Anual de Informa\u00e7\u00f5es Sociais)<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0em 1994, 45,23% da m\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>de<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>obra empregada<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>ganhava<\/span>\u00a0de 1 a 2\u00a0sal\u00e1rios m\u00ednimos<\/span>, ou seja, muito pouco.<\/span>\u00a0Onde\u00a0<\/span>33,6% desses empregados\u00a0<\/span>tinha<\/span>\u00a08<\/span>a<\/span>\u00a0s\u00e9rie incompleta<\/span>, provavelmente pela<\/span>\u00a0a sua<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>condi\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0financeira<\/span>\u00a0baixa<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>E 49,02% havia<\/span>\u00a0permanecido<\/span>\u00a0h\u00e1 menos de 1 ano no emprego<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span>Por<\/span>\u00a0fim,\u00a0<\/span>80,45% da m\u00e3o-de-obra empregada no ramo do vestu\u00e1rio \u00e9 constitu\u00edda por mulheres.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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F\u00c1BRICA DA MISSBELLA, EM COLATINA.
CR\u00c9DITOS: A GAZETA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

H<\/span><\/span>oje em dia, n\u00e3o \u00e9 muito diferente<\/span><\/span>. No ano de 2016, a mulher ainda ocupa a maioria dos cargos na\u00a0<\/span><\/span>\u00e1rea<\/span><\/span>\u00a0de\u00a0<\/span><\/span>vestu\u00e1rios<\/span><\/span>. S\u00e3o\u00a0<\/span><\/span>aproximadamente 230<\/span><\/span>,5 mil mulheres\u00a0<\/span><\/span>predominando<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>este setor no\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Brasil.<\/span><\/span>\u00a0No qual mais da metade dessas pessoas, trabalhando neste setor<\/span><\/span>\u00a0s\u00e3o<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>for<\/span><\/span>\u00e7<\/span><\/span>adas<\/span><\/span>\u00a0a confec<\/span><\/span>cionar<\/span><\/span>, s<\/span><\/span>egundo a\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Ag\u00eancia<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>FIEP<\/span><\/span>.<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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IMAGEM: THE MINDEROO FOUNDATION<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

P<\/span>odemos ver que nesse gr\u00e1fico a m\u00e3o de obra na\u00a0<\/span>produ\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0de\u00a0<\/span>vestu\u00e1rios tem muitos conflitos e como muitos s\u00e3o for\u00e7ados a produzir.<\/span>\u00a0Que nos leva a pensar que a m\u00e3o de obra na\u00a0<\/span>produ\u00e7\u00e3o t\u00eaxtil \u00e9 muito\u00a0<\/span>escravizada.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>Mat\u00e9ria prima<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Diferentemente dos outros\u00a0<\/span>aspectos, o<\/span>\u00a0material usado para a\u00a0<\/span>confec\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0de roupas\u00a0<\/span>atualmente e antigamente\u00a0<\/span>n\u00e3o teve tanta evolu\u00e7\u00e3<\/span>o, ou seja,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>a\u00a0<\/span>mat\u00e9ria<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>prima permaneceu igual<\/span>:<\/span>\u00a0o tecido<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

No ano 1980 a 1990, os principais tipos de tecidos usados foram\u00a0<\/span>jeans, lycra e nylon com brilhos e cores estrelavam a d\u00e9cada dos excessos.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>J\u00e1 atualmente<\/span>, em 2019,\u00a0<\/span>os tipos mais usados\u00a0<\/span>s\u00e3o Elastano, Algod\u00e3o, L\u00e3 e Viscose.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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IMAGEM: JORNAL EXPRESSO<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Esgotamento dos recursos naturai<\/span><\/b>s<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

“<\/span><\/i>O\u00a0<\/span><\/i>Brasil\u00a0<\/span><\/i>\u00e9<\/span><\/i>\u00a0privilegiado pelos recursos naturais, especialmente pela \u00e1gua,\u00a0<\/span><\/i>um dos\u00a0<\/span><\/i>recursos mais<\/span><\/i>\u00a0precioso<\/span><\/i>s\u00a0<\/span><\/i>para a humanidade. Mas com<\/span><\/i>\u00a0a grande demanda de \u00e1gua na produ\u00e7\u00e3o de vestu\u00e1rios e<\/span><\/i>\u00a0por fal<\/span><\/i>ta de leis eficazes,<\/span><\/i>\u00a0no s\u00e9culo XX<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>a \u00e1gua estava se\u00a0<\/span><\/i>tornando mais escassa<\/span><\/i>“<\/span><\/i>.<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>Diz<\/span><\/i>\u00a0Mauricio\u00a0<\/span>Bekhor<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>propriet\u00e1rio<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>da Confec\u00e7\u00f5es Mauricio.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

J\u00e1 e<\/span>m 2015<\/span>\u00a0o esgotamento de recursos naturais foi maior ainda. O<\/span>btiveram<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>quatro\u00a0<\/span>elementos que\u00a0<\/span>foram<\/span>\u00a0mais explorados na natureza para a\u00a0<\/span>produ\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0de roupas, ele<\/span>s s\u00e3o: a\u00a0<\/span>\u00e1gua<\/span>, pois a produ\u00e7\u00e3o t\u00eaxtil requer toneladas de \u00e1gua para a sua\u00a0<\/span>confec\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0(mas ainda n\u00e3o superando a demanda de\u00a0<\/span>\u00e1gua<\/span>\u00a0na\u00a0<\/span>produ\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0antigamente)<\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>geralmente utilizando tratamentos qu\u00edmicos nocivos<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0ent\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>fazendo o uso de muita energia<\/span>; outro \u00e9 o petr\u00f3leo,\u00a0<\/span>que se usa para fazer o poli\u00e9ster. E por fim, o algod\u00e3o,\u00a0<\/span>utilizado para fazer um tipo de tecido muito usado na\u00a0<\/span>ind\u00fastria<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>s<\/span>egundo a<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Equipe\u00a0<\/span>Akatu<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Produ\u00e7\u00e3o e descarte de res\u00edduos<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

“<\/span><\/i>Menos ind\u00fastria, menos lixo e\u00a0<\/span><\/i>menos\u00a0<\/span><\/i>res\u00edduos; assim, era 100 anos\u00a0<\/span><\/i>atr\u00e1s<\/span><\/i>, o lixo e o descarte de\u00a0<\/span><\/i>res\u00edduos<\/span><\/i>\u00a0n\u00e3o era um\u00a0<\/span><\/i>problema<\/span><\/i>.\u00a0<\/span><\/i>Mas a<\/span><\/i>\u00a0partir<\/span><\/i>\u00a0da segunda metade\u00a0<\/span><\/i>d<\/span><\/i>o\u00a0<\/span><\/i>s\u00e9culo<\/span><\/i>\u00a0passado<\/span><\/i>, com o parque industrial em expans\u00e3o, houve a necessidade de\u00a0<\/span><\/i>criar<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>leis que regulamentassem o descarte de<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>res\u00edduos. Mas infelizmente existem falhas no cumprimento dessas leis<\/span><\/i>“,<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span>diz<\/span>\u00a0Mauricio\u00a0<\/span>Bekhor<\/span>\u00a0dono da Confec\u00e7\u00f5es Mauricio.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>Em 2018,\u00a0<\/span>o<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>lixo<\/span>\u00a0gerado na ind\u00fastria t\u00eaxtil \u00e9 todo material derivado de sobra e resto da produ\u00e7\u00e3o, que n\u00e3o possui mais utilidade ap\u00f3s determinado processo e que, geralmente s\u00e3o descartados e tratados como indesej\u00e1veis. Assim, muitas vezes por falta de conhecimento ou por neglig\u00eancia<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0muitas empresas descartam esses res\u00edduos sem o tratamento adequado<\/span>, assim prejudicando ainda mais o meio ambiente,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>s<\/span>egundo a\u00a0<\/span>Associa\u00e7\u00e3o Brasileira da Ind\u00fastria T\u00eaxtil e de Confec\u00e7\u00e3o (ABIT)<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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IMAGEM: PENSAMENTO VERDE<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Libera\u00e7\u00e3o de poluentes na \u00e1gua e no ar<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

“<\/span><\/i>Os agentes que mais\u00a0<\/span><\/i>polu\u00edam<\/span><\/i>\u00a0<\/span><\/i>eram as<\/span><\/i>\u00a0ind\u00fastrias<\/span><\/i>\u00a0de tecido<\/span><\/i>\u00a0e os ve\u00edculos<\/span><\/i>\u00a0necess\u00e1rios para a produ\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span><\/i>. No in\u00edcio do s\u00e9culo passado,\u00a0<\/span><\/i>havia<\/span><\/i>\u00a0menos carros e menos\u00a0<\/span><\/i>ind\u00fastrias<\/span><\/i>. Mas, a partir da segunda metade do\u00a0<\/span><\/i>s\u00e9culo<\/span><\/i>\u00a020,\u00a0<\/span><\/i>com a expans\u00e3o do parque industrial e a circula\u00e7\u00e3o de\u00a0<\/span><\/i>ve\u00edculos<\/span><\/i>, que emitiam\u00a0<\/span><\/i>mon\u00f3xido de carbono, a qualidade do ar e das \u00e1guas pioraram<\/span><\/i>,\u00a0<\/span><\/i>diz<\/span><\/i>, Mauricio\u00a0<\/span>Bekhor<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>propriet\u00e1rio da Confec\u00e7\u00f5es\u00a0<\/span>Mauricio<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>J\u00e1 em 2020, s<\/span>egundo dados da HBS, uma pe\u00e7a de roupa que jogamos fora ap\u00f3s um m\u00eas emite 400% mais de carbono em compara\u00e7\u00e3o a uma pe\u00e7a mantida durante um ano. Desse modo, o consumo desenfreado n\u00e3o s\u00f3 consome mais mat\u00e9rias-primas como tamb\u00e9m aumenta os impactos ambientais produzidos.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Contudo, a quest\u00e3o da polui\u00e7\u00e3o e do alto consumo de recursos naturais permanecem um desafio para o setor<\/span>, al\u00e9m do aumento de grandes\u00a0<\/span>ind\u00fastrias<\/span>\u00a0no\u00a0<\/span>pa\u00eds<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Transforma\u00e7\u00f5es na paisagem e na sociedade\u00a0<\/span><\/b>lo<\/span><\/b>c<\/span><\/b>al<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>Levando<\/span>\u00a0em\u00a0<\/span>considera\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0todos os aspectos citados anteriormente,\u00a0<\/span>houve<\/span>\u00a0enormes<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>transforma\u00e7\u00f5es<\/span>\u00a0na<\/span>s<\/span>\u00a0paisage<\/span>ns do\u00a0<\/span>s\u00e9culo<\/span>\u00a0passado para c\u00e1<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>No s\u00e9culo passado\u00a0<\/span>havia<\/span>\u00a0m<\/span>uitas\u00a0<\/span>\u00e1reas verdes, jardins<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0menos concreto e arranha\u00a0<\/span>c\u00e9us. Hoje, nossa cidade\u00a0<\/span>\u00e9 cercada\u00a0<\/span>de pr\u00e9dios luxuosos, shopping e\u00a0<\/span>constru\u00e7\u00f5es<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

A respeito da sociedade local, que aumentou bastante em consequ\u00eancia da\u00a0<\/span>imigra\u00e7\u00e3o<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>maci\u00e7a<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0tornando<\/span>\u00a0as cidades<\/span>\u00a0cada vez\u00a0<\/span>mais cosmopolitas<\/span>, at\u00e9 hoje<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Segundo<\/span>, Mauricio\u00a0<\/span>Bekhor<\/span>\u00a0dono da Confec\u00e7\u00f5es Mauricio.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Por fim, p<\/span>o<\/span>demos concluir<\/span>\u00a0que<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>essa compara\u00e7\u00e3o entre a produ\u00e7\u00e3o de vestu\u00e1rios antigamente<\/span>\u00a0e atualmente<\/span>, obteve<\/span>\u00a0muitas\u00a0<\/span>mudan\u00e7as<\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>nas quais n\u00e3o foram muito boas. E como essas\u00a0<\/span>mudan\u00e7as<\/span>\u00a0refletiram na soc<\/span>iedade e na paisagem<\/span>\u00a0local.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Referencias utilizadas<\/span><\/b>:<\/span><\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n